Mt Triumph - 7270' / 2216m
NE Ridge, III 5.6
2-3 days, July-October
Mt Triumph - named by a surveyor responsible for most of the interesting names in the North Cascades, its only fitting that its closest neighbor (sharing a steep saddle) is Mt Despair. The NE Ridge of Mt Triumph is a remote climb with an incredible campsite and awesome rock.
After picking picking up our permit in Marblemount, we'll drive up to the Thorton Lakes trailhead and spend about 6-8 hours hiking to the bivy sight in Triumph basin. The trail to Thorton Lakes is a popular day-hike, so we'll see plenty of people until we reach the climbers' path the Triumph Col. Then (poof!) they'll be gone, we'll have the trail to ourselves, and we won't see a soul until we hike out. Our camp is a short walk away from Triumph Col in the basin, and we'll fall asleep staring at our climb tomorrow morning.
A sunrise wake-up and start will have us across the basin's granite slabs in short order, and gaining the NE Ridge on the other side. Exciting and fun scrambling is interrupted by a series of steep steps that are "pitched out" to the summit. Then we'll rappel and back-scramble the route to exit and re-cross our steps across the basin to camp.
Following the climbers' path and trail back out past Thorton Lakes and to the car typically takes 5-6 hours.
I offer these trips as a guide-employee of The Mountain Bureau.