Gear List: Alps Hut Alpine Climbing
All my trips start with a handshake/hug/high-five, and a gear check. We’ll talk about the route, the weather forecast, and then make sure our gear matches the conditions. This can be a verbal gear check for old hands, or a complete yard sale for the new folk.
Here is a comprehensive gar list that includes pieces needed for these specific routes from June to September, in all possible weather. Some things need to come no matter what the conditions - other pieces of kit may end up being left behind. If you have things you’re unsure about, bring them and let’s consider their usefulness versus their space and weight. My goal is to refine your kit and find that balance between being prepared and keeping your pack as light as possible.
While I do have a few extra ice axes, crampons, harnesses and helmets, I’m an operation of one and not prepared to rent equipment. I do know every climbing shop between Seattle and Bellingham that does. Please let me know what gear you’re missing as soon as possible so we can be sure to get you the gear you need.
I do provide ropes and route gear. Huts costs include breakfast and dinner, but lunches or snack food are also available so you don’t have to bring days and days of food up from the valley. If you have any dietary preferences or restrictions please let me know as soon as possible.
What to Look Forward To
Climbing in the Alps is a unique experience for North Americans - catered huts let us use smaller, lighter packs that we associate more with day climbs than overnight trips. The climbing can vary from mountaineering on Mount Blanc to pitched out rock routes with glacier approaches to endless pitches of 60° snow and ice to everything in between. So your gear needs to cover a wide range of conditions - and plan to leave whatever we don’t need behind in town. The following list is for climbing glaciated terrain, steep snow to 50°, and rock climbing up to 5.6 / 5a.
Climbing
Helmet. Needs to be UIAA rated for climbing. My new personal favorite is the Blue Ice Blast. An awesome budget option I recently learned about is the Metolius Hardtop - about 33% heavier than the Vapor but only 40% the cost.
Mountaineering ice axe with adze. No longer primarily a walking stick, I prefer and recommend shorter sizes. Check out the Blue Ice Akila, or Bluebird. Talk to me about your future ambitions if you’re having a hard time deciding which.
Alpine Climbing Harness. These typically have minimum or no padding to save weight and space in your pack. I wear the Blue Ice Choucas Pro, but I think most would be happy with the standard Choucas.
Triple Action Capturing Locking Carabiner. That’s a lot of words to make sure the gate stays locked when you want it and features a second smaller gate inside the carabiner’s geometry to capture your belay loop and keep the carabiner ideally oriented. My personal favorite is the Grivel Clypsydra L, but most folks would find the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG more familiar.
Belay Device - tube-style, double rope. Climbing the summit pyramid on Shuksan requires one. My current favorite is the Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay - same mechanics as the BD ATC Guide or the Petzl Reverso, but uses steel at the wear points and still doesn’t add weight.
A second Triple Action Capturing Locking Carabiner. That first one was for your belay device. But you may need a second one to securely attach yourself to the middle of a rope. Luckily Grivel offers the Clypsydra S - everything I like about the Clypsydra but in a smaller size. Alternatively, Edelrid offers the HMS Strike Triple FG - similar to the Bulletproof, without the steel to save weight. Alternative: Purchase a locking carabiner and second non-locking carabiner of the same size. This is a little more versatile for other applications. An example of this is the Black Diamond Liteforge Screwgate Carabiner paired with a Hotwire Carabiner. If you already own a variety of carabiners, or if this is getting confusing, feel free to contact me to discuss.
Non-Locking Carabiner. Any will do, but the two I use are the Black Diamond Hotwire and the Edelrid Pure Wire.
Nut tool (optional). These routes do involve some gear placements, and I find it easier if everyone has their own nut tool to remove nuts, aka stoppers. It typically requires another non-locking carabiner to rack it.
“Double-length” or “Double-Shoulder” Sling, cord or webbing. This is (as the name implies) twice as long as a “Shoulder” Sling, or 120cm/48” long. The Blue Ice Mission Light (red) is great, but anything that is 10 mm wide or even less works, like the Black Diamond Dynex Runner (blue).
Mountaineering / Alpine Boots. I’m currently using the Scarpa Ribelle HD, but I’m a big proponent of high-topped approach shoes. Salewa is my current favorite, they offer a number of good options.
Boot Crampons. The best “quiver of one” crampons have a steel front toe paired with an aluminum heal to reduce weight. This steel/aluminum combo makes them a great generalist tool too, and should last you a good long time. I really like how the Petzl Irvis Hybrid packs so small, and are easy to adjust. They come with both kinds of toe bails, but you need to order the “Back Flex” heel bails if you want to use them with shoes or boots that don’t have that heal welt. I also recommend adding a replacement pair of Cord-Tec: it’s the one part that is expected to wear out, and usually when one fails the other is close behind. It’s an easy repair to do in the field, so I just keep a spare pair of cords in my repair kit. Aluminum crampons are also approriate here - if you’re interested in expanding your gear selection, consider purchasing an all-aluminum crampon (not trail cleats/spikes). I’m happy to make recommendations.
Trekking Poles. They make a difference - they help with your balance (and therefore energy) and reduce impacts on ankles, knees, hips and back. My favorite are the Black Diamond Distance Z Trekking/Running Poles, and I like to get them shorter than my ski poles (usually one size down).
30L-45L Backpack. I’m currently climbing with a collection of out-of-production models from Arcteryx, Black Diamond and Blue Ice.
Clothing - Top Layers
Sports Bras. One bra for every 2-3 days works well, depending of course on the heat and your own body. The Patagonia Active Mesh Bra is a good example.
Short Sleeve Shirt. Also good for 2-3 days. I really like collared button down shirts that are a cotton/polyester blend. I can unbutton to cool off, or turn up the collar to protect the back of my neck. The Patagonia Go-To Shirt is a great example of this. If you’re a t-shirt person, the Patagonia Capilene Cool Daily Shirt is a good option too.
Long Sleeve Baselayer (optional). I leave this at home most summer days, but occasionally in June or September we get cold fronts that justify it. The Patagonia Capilene Thermal Hoody is a good example. Pro Tip - most sun hoodies do the same thing!
Wind Hoody. Sometimes all you need to stay warm is to stop the wind. This piece is almost always in my pack except the coldest days of winter. Check out the Patagonia Houdini Jacket.
Insulated Vest (optional). Here’s another “secret weapon”. An insulated vest works great paired with a wind shirt or with my insulated jacket, and takes up practically no space. I swear by the Patagonia Nano Puff Vest.
Insulated Jacket. The Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody has been my go-to. If I need more insulation, then I bring a Patagonia DAS Lite to stack on top, but that’s another one of my “May/September” problems. If you’re worried about keeping the jacket dry, get the DAS Lite.
Hardshell Jacket. This is an example of something that we bring if we think we need it, and leave behind if we think we don’t. I like to keep it light and minimalist, like the Patagonia M10 Storm Jacket.
Lightweight Gloves. These are typically uninsulated, but they need to have leather or reinforced fingers. These don’t need to be “climbing” gloves - but climbing belay gloves. Gardening gloves work well, leather work gloves work well, mechanic gloves work too. We may use them for climbing, but mine get used most often for rappelling. A simple liner glove will get destroyed in one trip. I do prefer a snug fit in case I need to climb with them with no gauntlet (cuff).
Midweight gloves. These are my “80%” gloves - my go-to pair when I need to wear gloves for actual insulation. Imagine your typical ski glove, except these need to be a bit more nimble for climbing and durable for rappelling. I prefer low gauntlet-style gloves that will fit under my jacket sleeves, as opposed to high or big gauntlet-styles that are intended to be worn over my jacket cuffs. Outdoor Research has the best selection for value. Don’t hesitate to contact me if you need help.
Heavyweight gloves (optional). I find that I don’t need a “heavyweight” glove for the summer, but I’ve witnessed too many people suffering because they operate colder than me (curiously, my typical core temperature is a full degree below average, and I wonder how one is related to the other). Again, Outdoor Research has the best selection in the United States at quite reasonable prices.
Toque (Knit Hat). I bring the heaviest knit hat I can find - because I sleep in it every night. My current favorite is a hand-knit beanie I picked up this summer at a local store. Keep in mind that it may need to fit under a helmet, so it should fit well - no baggy tops or pom-poms! My current favorite is a hand-knit beanie I found in Canada last fall, but you can never go wrong with a Double-Diamond Fisherman Beanie!
Ball Cap. A ball cap is a wonderful thing, and you can never have too many. A five panel hat has become the new “in” hat for climbing because it doesn’t have the little metal top found on traditional ball caps. But if you prefer those more traditional hats (I do), it’s actually easy to make them “helmet ready”: just take a pair of needle nose pliers and snap that metal button right off. Check out the Double Diamond Summer-weight Closed-back Hat (my favorite). Long-haired folks might prefer the DD Summer-weight Snapback version to tuck their pony-tails through. And the DD 5-Panel Hat meets the new-schoolers’ demands. Seriously, these last two hats were asked for by guests.
Neck gaiter. I wear neck gaiters primarily as a headband and lightweight toque in the summer, but I also like to wear one around my neck at night to keep out drafts. “Buff” is the classic company with a ton of options.
Clothing - Bottom Layers
Underwear. Like sports bras and shirts, I recommend a pair of undies for every 2-3 days.
Long Underwear Bottoms (optional). These are a great way to add some insulation to my summer-weight pants if the weather is forecasted to be cold. Check out the Patagonia Capilene Thermal Weight Bottoms.
Shorts (optional). If it’s hot, it’s worth the trouble wearing shorts for the hiking and carrying trousers to change into later. It’s also nice to change into at the huts in the afternoons. I like to wear longer running shorts with pockets, like the Patagonia Terrebonne Shorts.
Softshell Trousers. I like to wear something that has some resistance to crampons and sharp rocks, but still light enough that I minimize roasting in the August sun. Check out the Patagonia Terraria Alpine Pants.
Hardshell Trousers. Following my Hardshell Jacket strategy, I like something with minimal frill to minimize weight, and if the forecast doesn’t call for it, I’ll leave these in the car. Look at the Patagonia Torrentshell 3L Rain Pants to see what I mean.
Hiking Socks. Again, a pair for 2-3 days. I like the Darn Tough Hiker Micro Crew Midweight.
Other Things
Sleep sack. This is something unique to Alps hut trips. Since the sheets and comforters are only periodically cleaned, huts require Sleep Sacks for hygiene. I picked one up at a gear store in Switzerland, and I recommend you look for the lightest & smallest packed one possible. This is a good example: Cocoon Silk Mummy Liner.
Sunglasses. I prefer sunglasses as much as possible. Go with the darkest tint you can: you shouldn’t be squinting. I’m a Smith Guides’ Choice fanboy.
Goggles. But there are days where the weather doesn’t allow sunglasses. So I like goggles that give me the biggest field of view, and this year I picked lenses that adjust to the given brightness. Smith I/O Mag XL with a spare lens in Yellow or Red to help with contrast in low light.
Water storage. Hydration bladders rarely work. The problem is the hose and bite valve freezing or leaking. And because they’re out of sight, most people either run out of water before the day ends or don’t drink enough and spent the day carrying a bunch of extra weight. We’re not racing and we’ll have regular breaks, so why not carry a water bottle. My idea is to carry a hydration bag - I like to use the MSR DromLite 4L, and only fill it half-way - it’s a lot easier to pack than a filled to the lid 2L bag.
Headlamp. Nothing fancy needed. I’m relying on the Black Diamond Storm 450 or the Astro 300.
Corrective eyewear. I wear reading glasses. I have witnessed how much trouble putting in and taking out contacts can be. You know what’s really troublesome? Not being able to read a map. Bring what you need: glasses, contacts or both.
Personal Repair Kit (optional). I’ll bring a comprehensive repair kit, but an extra ski strap or two, 1.5m/5ft of duct tape, a lighter, a pocket knife and a spare headlamp can deal with most problems.
Personal Toilet Kit. I bring a toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, hairbrush, and medications.
Personal First Aid Kit. AKA the Boo Boo Kit. I have comprehensive group first aid kit(s), but I rarely have enough blister stuff for everyone - what is really helpful is if you carry a handful of band aids and the blister bandages that work for you.
Menstrual Care (as needed). Bring what you like to use, and something to pack soiled material out. My missus prefers to use a “Lunette”. Contact me if you need some guidance.
Battery Bank. Watches. Phones. Earbuds. Headlamps too, except I’m resisting having one more thing that needs recharging. My latest favorite find is the Nitecore NB10000, available with USB-A ports (Gen 1), USB-C ports (Gen 3), or one of each (Gen 2). I add super short USB-C and iPhone cables and an Apple Watch charger for a complete kit.
Organizational Pouches. My toiletries, electronics, paperwork, first aid kits, and repair kits all benefit by having some organization and storage in bags, pouches or envelopes. I’ve tried everything, from cheap Amazon purchases to Etsy home-business sewers and expensive travel bags. In a recent cross-over from another hobby of mine, I found the Daka and Daka Lite pouches from Magpul work fantastically well. They come in a limited range of colors but a wide variety of sizes, two different thicknesses of material, with and without windows, and water-resistant or water-proof. I’m using these for all of my “hard goods” organization.
Cell phone. AKA my camera that I can make phone calls with. Everything I want my camera to do is accomplished by my cell phone. Since my cell phone is also my principal navigation and map tool - and my book to read at night - and my note book - it comes with me.
Camera (optional). Of course you can bring a real camera if you’re into that. Or action cameras - I’m playing with one this year.
Satellite Communication Device (optional). It’s getting close, but I’m still not 100% satisfied that all I need is my cell phone and a satellite. So I still carry a satellite coms device paired to my phone - the Garmin InReach Mini2, currently on the most minimal plan.
Notes on the Gear I Recommend
My gear recommendations are honest opinions based on either 1) what I own and use and/or 2) where I would go first to find a replacement for something in my kit - some of my favorites are sadly no longer in production. My choices are based primarily on function, space, weight and finally value (cost versus durability). What they aren’t based on is sponsorships or paid promotion. I do get discounts from many of the brands I mentioned above, and I have worked for several of those brands in marketing and product development. That was “have worked for” in the past tense. No one is paying me to push their stuff.
Except my own merch, I push that shamelessly.
I do tend to be brand-loyal. When I find something that works for me, I tend to tend to keep using it. If something is working but just a little off I tend to look around at options, and I might experiment and find something that accomplishes the mission better. Like the organizational pouches. Or it doesn’t and I revert back to what has been working already. That’s actually my current story with backpacks. Alternatively, I’ve been using the Feathered Friends Vireo and Tanager sleeping bags since 2004 because I don’t see anything better on the market. I keep trying different clothes but Patagonia is just my go-to when I wear something out, and their customer service has always been stellar. That goes far with me.
All of the links provided above are directly to the manufacturer whenever possible. If you prefer to purchase from your local privately owned outdoor gear store, you are a @#$ing rock star. If you prefer to purchase from REI or Amazon, that’s ok too, no shade whatsoever, I just placed an Amazon order this morning. One great strategy for boots is to order multiple sizes from REI, try them on at home, then keep the pair that fits and return the others. I think my electronics links had to be with Amazon because I don’t know anywhere locally in person to find those pieces. If you find a piece of kit from a different manufacturer that you think works better and/or has better value, tell me about it!
This list will be updated as needed - the publishing date will reflect the latest.
