Gear List: Silvretta Hut Skiing
All my trips start with a handshake/hug/high-five, and a gear check. We’ll talk about the route, the weather forecast, and then make sure our gear matches the conditions. This can be a verbal gear check for old hands, or a complete yard sale for the new folk.
Here is a comprehensive gear list that includes pieces needed for this specific tour from March through April, in all possible weather. Some things need to come no matter what the conditions - other pieces of kit may end up being left behind. If you have things you’re unsure about, bring them and let’s consider their usefulness versus their space and weight. My goal is to refine your kit and find that balance between being prepared and keeping your pack as light as possible.
While I do have a few extra ice axes, crampons, harnesses and carabiners, I’m an operation of one and not prepared to rent most equipment. I can recommend at least one gear shop from every town I begin a tour in. Please let me know what gear you’re missing as soon as possible so we can be sure to get you the gear you need.
I do provide ropes. Breakfast and dinner (the half-pension) are typically included at the huts, and sack lunches can be ordered separately. If you have any dietary preferences or restrictions please let me know as soon as possible.
What to Expect
The Silvretta Tour features relatively short direct distances and elevation gain between most huts, and are still reachable on moderate-to-high avalanche hazard days. On good weather days we often take detours for summits or to ski the best aspects and longer pitches. So gear can be a little heavier, skis a little wider, and the pace a little less pressed. The Austrian Alps often hold the deepest snowpacks in the range with consistently lower temperatures than further west, keeping powder snow intact for days after a storm.
The huts cover a wide spectrum - Heidelberger, Chammona Tuoi and Silvretta are owned and operated by the Swiss Alpine Club and are great examples of the Swiss hut system, sleeping between 30 and 50 people each. Jamtalhutte and Weisenbadener are on the Austrian side of the border, accessible by car and operate as hotels in the summer, and sleep over a 100 people each. Both sizes have their charms (Jamtalhutte has showers!) and the regardless the food is fantastic!
Skiing*
Skis. Since this tour puts more emphasis on the down, and we’re more likely to have soft snow conditions, I bring my mid-range skis. Something in the 100-110mm underfoot is a perfect compromise between performance and touring. Check out the Black Crow Corvus Freebird and Navis Freebird. I’m thinking of getting a pair of Corvus next for my quiver.
Bindings. I’m admittedly old school, and classic “tech” pin bindings have rarely failed me. I also don’t regularly try to huck my meat for big airs. A DIN setting of 8 keeps my skis on my feet and I haven't blown an ACL yet (knock on head). I’ve also had a couple of incidences that make me prefer binding brakes instead of leashes. I value saving as much weight as I can. With that big wind-up, my favorite binding is currently the Salomon MTN Pure + Leash & Brake. I have them on all three pairs of my skis: 88mm, 106mm, and 125mm underfoot.
Boots. I’m starting to think about checking out the market a bit more, but I’m currently on my third pair of Scarpa Maestrale RS. This boot has required no punching or other shenanigans to get a great fit, just getting the liners baked at a reliable bootfitter. It’s an awesome compromise between touring and performance. The women’s equivalent is the Gea RS. Pro-tip: if you’re having to purchase these online, order 2-3 sizes and then return the pairs that don’t fit best.
Skins. Make sure they fit your skis! Pro tip - a lot of backcountry brands like Black Crows and Black Diamond offer pre-cut skins to fit, and a lot of shops will offer a complimentary skin trim if you purchase your skis and skins from them. It’s a win-win. Pomoca manufactures - directly or indirectly - about 60% of the market, so it’s really hard to go wrong with them.
Ski Crampons. These are a must-have for early morning in firm conditions. Non-negotiable. Make sure they work with your bindings. For my bindings, the Plum Ski Crampons work best.
Ski Poles. I prefer fixed length carbon fiber. I don't like faffing around with adjustable poles. My favorites aren’t in production any longer, so you’ll see me trying out several pair this year. There are so many options out there, so you do you.
Helmet (optional). This needs to be rated for skiing/snowboarding. MIPS is the current gold standard. I do recommend that you be weight conscious about this piece of kit - we spend about 60%-75% of our movement each day going uphill! Still, if you’re used to wearing a helmet, bring a helmet. Check out the Smith Method MIPS - only 400gm.
Beacon. Needs to be three-antenna and less than 10 years old, ideally less than 5 years. The Backcountry Access Tracker 3+ is still my favorite: simple, reliable, and one of the smallest/slimmest on the market. All beacons need to be carried in the chest harness provided, or in a pants pocket designed to have a beacon. You need to be familiar with how to use it before the trip.
Probe. Any length will do, and there isn’t a brand out there I wouldn’t trust. I’m carrying the BCA Stealth 240 Carbon.
Shovel. Pro tip: Make sure it fits in your pack! For the best weight savings versus performance, check out the BCA Dozer 1T-UL (But who came up with that name?).
Pack. 30-45L. This is another product that you could order multiple sizes online, and then keep the smallest pack that fits everything you need it to carry without having to master Tetris to pack it. It needs to be ski-focused, with appropriate storage for your probe and shovel, and straps to carry skis, helmets and ice axe as needed. Your summer backpacking pack is probably not going to cut it. I’m using the BCA Stash 35 again this year.
Airbag Pack (optional). Make sure you know where to get your gas canister refilled when you arrive, or how to travel with the battery if it’s electric.
Glacier Travel and Climbing
Harness. We’ll wear this every day we may touch a glacier. Try not to use a rock climbing harness if you can help it - the bulk tends to cause chafing and easily ices up. Instead I like the Choucas Light from Blue Ice. Another good option is the standard Choucas IV, which would also be a great alpine and mountaineering climbing harness.
Triple Action Capturing Locking Carabiner. That’s a lot of words to make sure the gate stays locked when you want it and features a second smaller gate inside the carabiner’s geometry to capture your belay loop and keep the carabiner ideally oriented. My personal favorite is the Grivel Clypsydra L, but most folks would find the Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Triple FG more familiar.
Non-Locking Carabiner. Any will do, but the two I use (you only need one!) are the Black Diamond Hotwire and the Edelrid Pure Wire.
“Double-length” or “Double-Shoulder” Sling, cord or webbing. This is (as the name implies) twice as long as a “Shoulder” Sling, or 120cm/48” long. The Blue Ice Mission Light(red) is great, but anything that is 10 mm wide or even less works, like the Black Diamond Dynex Runner (blue).
Boot Crampons. The best “quiver of one” crampons have a steel front toe paired with an aluminum heal to reduce weight. This steel/aluminum combo makes them a great generalist tool too, and should last you a good long time. I really like how the Petzl Irvis Hybrid packs so small, and are easy to adjust. They come with both kinds of toe bails, but you need to order the “Back Flex” heel bails if you want to use them with boots that don’t have that heal welt. I also recommend adding a replacement pair of Cord-Tec: it’s the one part that is expected to wear out, and usually when one fails the other is close behind. It’s an easy repair to do in the field, so I just keep a spare pair of cords in my repair kit. These are a great “quiver of one” boot crampon that will work for you year-around if you are interested in alpine climbing or mountaineering too.
Mountaineering ice axe with adze. This will live primarily on or even inside your pack, so get the shortest size possible. Check out the Blue Ice Akila, Bluebird, or the ultra lite Hummingbird. Talk to me about your future ambitions if you’re having a hard time deciding which.
Clothing - Top Layers
Sports Bras. One bra for every 2-3 days works well, depending of course on the heat and your own body. The Patagonia Active Mesh Bra is a good example.
Short Sleeve Shirt. Also good for 2-3 days. I really like collared button down shirts that are a cotton/polyester blend. I can unbutton to cool off, or turn up the collar to protect the back of my neck. The Patagonia Go-To Shirt is a great example of this. If you’re a t-shirt person, the Patagonia Capilene Cool Daily Shirt is a good option too.
Long Sleeve Baselayer (optional). If the temperatures are never forecasted to climb above freezing, I’ll wear a long-sleeve baselayer instead of a short sleeve shirt. If it looks like half the trip will suit one shirt over another, then I just bring one of each. The Patagonia Capilene Thermal Hoody is a good example. Pro Tip - most sun hoodies do the same thing!
Wind Hoody (optional). Sometimes all you need to stay warm is to stop the wind. This piece is almost always in my pack except the coldest days of winter. Check out the Patagonia Houdini Jacket.
Insulated Vest (optional). Here’s another “secret weapon”. An insulated vest works great paired with a wind shirt or with my insulated jacket, and takes up practically no space. I swear by the Patagonia Nano Puff Vest.
Insulated Jacket. The Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody has been my go-to. If I need more insulation, then I bring a Patagonia DAS Lite to stack on top.
Hardshell and/or Softshell Jackets. Since this is almost always for the worst weather, I like to keep it light, minimalist, and leave it at the bottom of my pack: I prefer just to bring the soft-shell, but some days the weather just demands are hardshell. I like the Patagonia M10 Storm Jacket and the R2 Techface Midlayer.
Lightweight Gloves. These are typically uninsulated or minimally insulated. I like them to have leather or reinforced fingers. They’re awesome for sunny spring days. I’m sporting the Hestra Ergo Grip Actives.
Midweight gloves. These are my “80%” gloves - my go-to pair when I need to wear gloves for actual insulation. I prefer low gauntlet-style gloves that will fit under my jacket sleeves, as opposed to high or big gauntlet-styles that are intended to be worn over my jacket cuffs. Outdoor Research has the best selection for value, but I really like the Hestra Wakayama. Don’t hesitate to contact me if you need help.
Heavyweight gloves (optional). I find that I don’t need a “heavyweight” glove often, but I’ve witnessed too many people suffering because they operate colder than me (curiously, my typical core temperature is a full degree below average, and I wonder how one is related to the other). Again, Outdoor Research has the best selection in the United States at quite reasonable prices, but I really like Hestra Alpine Pro 3-Finger mittens (not available in the US): The Hestra Topo 3-Finger is the not-quite-the-same US alternative.
Toque (Knit Hat). I bring the heaviest knit hat I can find. Keep in mind that it may need to fit under a helmet, so it should fit well - no baggy tops or pom-poms! My current favorite is a hand-knit beanie I found in a local store this summer, but you can never go wrong with a Double-Diamond Fisherman Beanie!
Ball Cap. A ball cap is a wonderful thing, and you can never have too many. A five panel hat has become the new “in” hat for climbing because it doesn’t have the little metal top found on traditional ball caps. But if you prefer those more traditional hats (I do), it’s actually easy to make them “helmet ready”: just take a pair of needle nose pliers and snap that metal button right off. Check out the Double Diamond Summer-weight Closed-back Hat (my favorite). Long-haired folks might prefer the DD Summer-weight Snapback version to tuck their pony-tails through. And the DD 5-Panel Hat meets the new-schoolers’ demands. Seriously, these last two hats were asked for by guests.
Neck gaiter. I wear neck gaiters primarily as a headband and lightweight toque, but I also like to wear one around my neck at night to keep out drafts. “Buff” is the classic company with a ton of options.
Clothing - Bottom Layers
Underwear. Like sports bras and shirts, I recommend a pair of undies for every 2-3 days.
Long Underwear Bottoms (optional). If the temperature isn’t going to climb above freezing today, I’ve learned that I really like to have long underwear on. If the forecasted high is above freezing, then I won’t put them on, and if its forecasted to be that warm all week, I won’t bring them at all. Check out the Patagonia Capilene Thermal Weight Bottoms.
Softshell Ski Pants. I’m in the market for options, but right now I’m sticking with something I know works - hybrid soft-shell/hardshell pants from Outdoor Research, the Trailbreaker Tour Pant.
Hardshell Ski Pants (optional). But some people are hardshell riders, and I’ve noticed they tend to wear long underwear or leggings and on hot days sweat and suffer a lot more than me. I don’t even own a pair of hardshell ski pants right now and don’t know what to recommend. You do you.
Ski socks. Same as your shirts and undies, good for 3 days or so. Darn Tough Over The Calf Midweight Ski Socks.
Sacred Sleep Socks (optional). One way to make your skis socks go further and last longer is to have a pair of hut socks. These can be thick and comfy, and give you sweaty ski socks more time to dry out. Only need one pair.
Shoes (optional). One of the most lovely charms about Alp huts is that they typically provide hut shoes or slippers and ask for ski boots to remain in the boot room. In the Swiss huts these are usually croc-style shoes. Outside of Switzerland it’s a bit more hit or miss. In Weisenbadener and Jamtalhutte, slippers are available for three euros - and you can keep the first pair you purchase and re-use them at the next hut - they pack really flat! But I’ve had several adventures with unexpected exits into unexpected towns, and have gotten to spend the day riding trains and busses in my ski boots. Not the most fun. So last year I found an incredible light-weight pair of shoes, especially after I removed the midsoles. It’s been a game changer. I bring them one my point-to-point tours - check them out here: Padgene Barefoot Shoe.
Other Things
Sleep sack. This is something unique to Alps hut trips. Since the sheets and comforters are only periodically cleaned, huts require Sleep Sacks for hygiene. I picked one up at a gear store in Switzerland, and I recommend you look for the lightest & smallest packed one possible. This is a good example: Cocoon Silk Mummy Liner.
Sunglasses. I prefer sunglasses as much as possible. Go with the darkest tint you can: you shouldn’t be squinting. I’m a Smith Guides’ Choice fanboy.
Goggles. But there are days where the weather doesn’t allow sunglasses. So I like goggles that give me the biggest field of view, and this year I picked lenses that adjust to the given brightness. Smith I/O Mag XL with a spare lens in Yellow or Red to help with contrast in low light.
Thermos or water bottle. Hydration bladders rarely work. The problem is the hose and bite valve freezing or leaking. Plus most people either run out of water before the day ends or don’t drink enough and spent the day carrying a bunch of extra weight. We’re not racing and we’ll have regular breaks, so why not carry a water bottle. Or even better, bring a thermos! Many of the huts have homemade “marching tea”, a floral or berry infusion made up specifically for us. I carry a thermos myself - I find it’s just easier to drink hot drinks on a cold day.
Headlamp. Nothing fancy needed. I’m relying on the Black Diamond Storm 450 or the Astro 300.
Corrective eyewear. I wear reading glasses. I have witnessed how much trouble putting in and taking out contacts can be. You know what’s really troublesome? Not being able to read a map. Bring what you need, glasses or contacts.
Personal Repair Kit (optional). An extra ski strap, 1.5m/5ft of duct tape, a lighter, a pocket knife and a spare headlamp can deal with most problems.
Personal Toilet Kit. I bring a toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, hairbrush, and medications.
Personal First Aid Kit. AKA the Boo Boo Kit. I have comprehensive group first aid kit(s), but I rarely have enough blister stuff for everyone - what is really helpful is if you carry a handful of band aids and the blister bandages that work for you.
Menstrual Care (as needed). Bring what you like to use, and something to pack soiled material out. My missus prefers to use a “Lunette”. Contact me if you need some guidance.
Battery Bank. Watches. Phones. Earbuds. Headlamps too, except I’m resisting having one more thing that needs recharging. My latest favorite find is the Nitecore NB10000, available with USB-A ports (Gen 1), USB-C ports (Gen 3), or one of each (Gen 2). I add super short USB-C and iPhone cables and an Apple Watch charger for a complete kit.
Organizational Pouches. My toiletries, electronics, paperwork, first aid kits, and repair kits all benefit by having some organization and storage in bags, pouches or envelopes. I’ve tried everything, from cheap Amazon purchases to Etsy home-business sewers and expensive travel bags. In a recent cross-over from another hobby of mine, I found the Daka and Daka Lite pouches from Magpul work fantastically well. They come in a limited range of colors but a wide variety of sizes, two different thicknesses of material, with and without windows, and water-resistant or water-proof. I’m using these for all of my “hard goods” organization.
Cell phone. AKA my camera that I can make phone calls with. Everything I want my camera to do is accomplished by my cell phone. Since my cell phone is also my principal navigation and map tool - and my book to read at night - and my note book - it comes with me.
Camera (optional). Of course you can bring a real camera if you’re into that.
Satellite Communication Device (optional). It’s getting close, but I’m still not 100% satisfied that all I need is my cell phone and a satellite. So I still carry a satellite coms device paired to my phone - the Garmin InReach Mini2, currently on the most minimal plan.
*When I say Skiing, what I’m really talking about is…
…any way you like to slide downhill - alpine, telemark or split board. I grew up skiing and just never felt compelled to learn to snowboard. I do think that snowboarding looks like you can have more fun in some snow conditions then skiing - but skiing excels at the tour, at moving over the land and terrain efficiently. One of my split board friends summed it up well (paraphrased here), “I have to work harder on the uphill and at the transitions to keep up with my ski partners and have more fun on the downhill.” That being said, my first Haute Route guiding trip was for a pair of splitboarders.
In the 1990’s more folks telemarked in the backcountry because telemark gear was typically lighter than anything available in alpine. The paradigm changed when Dynafit introduced the tech-pin binding. I telemarked for 20 years, but choose not to today. Just don’t see much value in it besides how smmmmooooottttthhhh it can look. And how quickly that can turn into a tomahawk down the slope.
This gear list still pertains to split boarders - I’d only make a couple of changes (for example, boot crampon fit is critical, ski poles need to be collapsible, etc). If you’re a split boarder joining me on a trip, make sure I look over the gear list and adjust it for you!
Notes on the Gear I Recommend
My gear recommendations are honest opinions based on either 1) what I own and use and/or 2) where I would go first to find a replacement for something in my kit - some of my favorites are sadly no longer in production. My choices are based primarily on function, space, weight and finally value (cost versus durability). What they aren’t based on is sponsorships or paid promotion. I do get discounts from many of the brands I mentioned above, and I have worked for several of those brands in marketing and product development. That was “have worked for” in the past tense. No one is paying me to push their stuff.
Except my own merch, I push that shamelessly.
I do tend to be brand-loyal. When I find something that works for me, I tend to tend to keep using it. If something is working but just a little off I start to look around at options, and I might experiment and find something that accomplishes the mission better. Like the organizational pouches. Or it doesn’t and I revert back to what has been working already. That’s actually my current story with backpacks. Alternatively, I’ve been using the Feathered Friends Vireo and Tanager sleeping bags since 2004 because I don’t see anything better on the market. I keep trying different clothes but Patagonia is just my go-to when I wear something out, and their customer service has always been stellar. That goes far with me.
All of the links provided above are directly to the manufacturer whenever possible. If you prefer to purchase from your local privately owned outdoor gear store, you are a @#$ing rock star. If you prefer to purchase from REI or Amazon, that’s ok too, no shade whatsoever, I just placed an Amazon order this morning. One great strategy for boots is to order multiple sizes from REI, try them on at home, then keep the pair that fits and return the others. I think my electronics links had to be with Amazon because I don’t know anywhere locally in person to find those pieces. If you find a piece of kit from a different manufacturer that you think works better and/or has better value, tell me about it!
This list will be updated as needed, I’ll try to review it annually, and the publishing date will reflect the latest.
