Finding Ice in the Cascades: Climbing the North Ridge on Kulshan

The North Ridge of Kulshan, aka Mt Baker, is the most fun on the mountain. There. I’ve said it. Here’s why:

1. You can climb this route in two reasonable days.

2. You can have an incredible bivouac with a fantastic sunset and an amazing sunrise.

3. You get to climb both days. The route is an enjoyable combination of glacier travel, pitched out steep snow, and ice climbing.

4. You will have the mountain all to yourself most of the trip.

Pretty bold claims, I know. Especially on a popular mountain second only to big Tahoma. Let me tell you how this happens:

1. Pack light. We’re going to carry up and over, so light packs are our allies. No extra food, fuel or socks. No pillows.

2. We’re going to bivy high. Let’s take advantage of that first day and cross the Coleman and Roosevelt Glaciers. Then we’ll step onto the north ridge and stop at that awesome bivy site I mentioned earlier.

3. Now we’re positioned for a great second day, less than 3000’ from the summit. The short distance is also the technical crux - about 200’ of alpine ice climbing.

4. Once we’ve tagged the top, it’s all down hill. Down the Roman Wall, down the Coleman Glacier, and down the Heliotrope Ridge Trail to the cars. Pizza, burgers, or barbecue await us.

That’s my secret. Now it can be yours too.