Frequently Asked Questions
This is a organic list of questions I get asked often - it will get updated frequently.
How is your pack so small?
Honestly, the only way I can continue to keep guiding for the next decade is to have the lightest equipment I can find. I intentionally give up a lot of comfort to carry less, and I spend a lot of money on durable, lightweight kit. My go-to pack for most overnight trips is 40 liters (about 2400 cubic inches). I have a 50 liter pack that I like to use for longer trips, say more than 4 or 5 days, but I’ll still use that 40L pack if the trip is a carry-over. I don’t own a bigger pack than 50L.
What is mountaineering?
Mountaineering is a sub-discipline of alpine climbing, and often what comes to mind when someone learns about “mountain climbing” for the first time. It typically does not require technical climbing (like on a rock face) but does require a rope and safety equipment. Glaciated routes such as the Easton Glacier on Kulshan / Mt Baker, the Disappointment Cleaver on Tahoma / Mt Rainier, the West Buttress on Denali, and the North and South routes on Mt Everest all qualify as mountaineering routes. There are several guides services in the Pacific Northwest that thrive on offering high-ratio mountaineering trips on the glaciated mountains here.
How long did it take you to become an AMGA-IFMGA Mountain Guide?
10 years from start to finish. When I took my first course in 2001, I had no plan - I didn’t know how far down the AMGA rabbit hole I wanted to go, or if I even could earn an IFMGA license. Hell, I feel now like I barely knew what an IFMGA license was. I also had a physical setback - I broke my lower left leg into seven pieces in June 2003. This was part of my motivation to finally go to university that fall, which slowed down my AMGA progress. By the time I graduated in 2006 I had drank the cool-aid and I was committed to getting my “pin”. It still took time - along the way I briefly became a PSIA 3 ski instructor - but I passed my last exam in the spring of 2011. In doing so I became the 75th American to earn the IFMGA carnet. It’s undoubtedly one of my proudest achievements.
When did you become a guide instructor?
I joined the AMGA National Instructor Team in 2016. Although I’m qualified to instruct, examine and course direct in all three disciplines, my travel commitments to Antarctica and Europe mean I spend practically all of my time in the Alpine program and in the Cascades.
What do you do for fun?
I still love to climb and ski. I also enjoy shooting and motorcycles. I try to split my time evenly between Antarctica, travel, and home; and also try to split my time between work, AMGA instruction, and personal time with my hobbies and my family.
What do you do in Antarctica?
I’m a Field Guide for the US Antarctic Research Program. I work with technical events and science teams leaving McMurdo Station or South Pole Station for 4 to 9 weeks at a field location typically further than 200 miles and requires technical glacier or alpine travel. My job is a combination of my guiding skills and instruction as well as managing 15,000-150,000 pounds of material and supplies, managing camp and being the primary medic. I’ve worked in Antarctica for over 15 seasons since 1996, and I’ve had this role since 2010.
What gear do you recommend?
While I have worked for several climbing and skiing companies in the past, I currently don’t and I am finding the freedom liberating. Undoubtedly I will be posting gear recommendations - there are a few already in the works. Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you’d like my two cents on equipment choices.
