Sunhado: climbing Mt Olympus the best way.

Sunhado, or Mount Olympus, at 7980ft / 2430m is sometimes called the “Sixth Peak” of the Pacific Northwest after Kulshan, Dakobed, Tahoma, Pahto and Loowit - or Mt Baker, Glacier Peak, Mt Rainier, Mt Adams, and Mt St Helens. This was a fantastic wild five day-adventure with Liz and Christy (from Dakobed last month) and joined this time by Elliot and Shawn. Without the “heat wave” it felt so much better. Each day was 8-9 hours long - including the summit day - except for only 5 hours on the last day.

My favorite way to climb the mountain is spend two full days approaching, hiking past Glacier Meadows and establishing a high camp on the upper Blue Glacier. It makes for a much more reasonable summit day then Glacier Meadows and offers amazing sunsets and sunrises. After summiting on day 3 I like to walk up Panic Peak and watch the sun drop into the Pacific. Then it’s time for a long hike back down, and arriving in Forks in time for a late lunch.

Something else I like to do is climb the 3rd-4th class “East Face”. I think it’s safer and more direct than the traditional “North Route” that many teams seem drawn to, and I’m not sure why. Maybe because it’s shorter? But the North route is fifth class - so it requires rock gear. The East Face doesn’t. In fact, the East Face doesn’t require more than a 20m rope and an extra sling in case you want to back up the one rappel station.

This is a big climb - more than 20 miles from the trailhead and 6000’ of elevation gain. Like Dakobed (Glacier Peak), we spend the first full day hiking in, on the second day we finish the approach and start up the Blue Glacier to a high camp. If I have more than two guests or we want to climb the NE Ridge (II 5.4), we need the full third day to summit and return to camp.

I’m willing to consider a four-day trip with one or two guests who have climbed something like Mt Shuksan or Mt Baker in a day.

This climb, like all of my local bookings, was run through the Mountain Bureau. It’s great having their support. You should check them/us out at mountainbureau.com.

The infamous ladder between Elk Lake and Glacier Meadows.

Crossing the lower Blue Glacier is easier with crampons. Because snow has completely melted away we can see all possible hazards and don't need a rope.

Summit sunrise.

Crossing the upper Blue Glacier

The 4th class crux pitch of the summit pyramid.

Enjoying the view of our work from the summit of Panic Peak.

Going, going...gone!

Summit reflections on the "Shoulder" of the Blue Glacier.

One last admiring look of Sunhado before the long trail out.

More photos from Liz, Christy, Shawn and Elliot - thanks y’all!

Here are my beta photos for route information:

The view from the moraine looking down the trail to the glacier. The goal is to follow the trail - and when it seems to vanish, think like a trail crew and look where you would intuitively want the trail to go. It's actually very well cairned. Take particular note of the big boulder where the trail meets the glacier: it's harder to spot the trail and cairns from below when you're hiking back.

You can gain the upper Blue Glacier by the direct route or stay low and traverse across the shoulder. I think the latter is overall easier to travel.

On the upper Blue Glacier, the direct route is usually melted out by this time of year, and a team is forced to traverse left through Pistol Pass.

The "East Face" of the summit pyramid. Red marks the four 4th-class steps with great terrain belays above each. Orange is the third class ramps in between. Yellow is the notorious 5th class North route.