Updated Summer 2021!
Climbing long, moderate alpine routes and returning to town for dinner is a one of the pleasures of climbing in the Cascades - elsewhere the approach is too long, the climbing too short, or the route too technical. My favorite zones are Washington Pass for more technical fifth-class climbing in an alpine setting, and Snoqualmie Pass for more moderate climbing just a short drive away from Seattle. This gear list is intended for these routes, or others similar.
Get the gear. This can be a headache, but nothing ruins a day more than having the wrong gear - or no gear at all - for the conditions you encounter. I try to layer my clothes so that 1) I don’t have to take something off just to put something else on, and 2) as I add layers I add progressively more insulation and protection from the elements. Experience plays a big role in this process, so if you’re new to this consider bringing a little bit more than what you need. If you have any doubt about if something isn’t necessary, bring it anyways. We’ll go through gear when we meet for the day, and depending on the forecast some of the items may get left behind to save weight and space.
You will need to bring your own food for these climbs. I prefer bars and single-serving packages of gel blocks for their ease, but have even brought slices of frozen pizza or deli sandwiches, so as long as it satisfies you and is sufficient for the day, bring it! A pair of water bottles or a water bladder with 2L capacity is ideal. I do not use hydration hose systems because I can’t manage my intake and end up running out of water early.
Footwear can vary widely through the summer - early season snow may make boots necessary, and the same route may just require low-top approach shoes just a few months later. Some routes may be best enjoyed with a pair of rock shoes after the approach. I’ve listed some options below, but check in with me when we’re preparing for your trip.
It’s always a good idea to bring just enough clothing to make it through a night uncomfortably. So I bring a lightweight knit hat (toque), a buff, and a lightweight insulation “puffy” jacket that I can layer on top of my soft-shell jacket.
GEAR
30L backpack. I prefer the Blue Ice Warthog 30L - my girlfriend likes the Dragonfly 25L.
Headlamp
Blister kit
Cell phone (the camera that can make phone calls)
Toilet paper and a spare ziplock for used toilet paper. That’s just good Leave No Trace practicing. I’ll provide Blue Bags if necessary.
Three or four section trekking poles. Trekking poles are a game changer on non-technical terrain, but they need to be able to collapse small enough that they don’t stick above your pack. I really like the Black Diamond Distance Carbon Z Trekking Poles.
Women Pads or tampons if necessary.
Optional
Any satellite communication device
A minimalist repair kit: 5 ft of duct tape, lighter, and spare headlamp
FOOTWEAR
Low top approach shoes, or
High top approach shoes, or
Alpine boots
Optional: Climbing shoes
CLIMBING GEAR
Helmet
Harness
Belay device with a large pear-shaped locking carabiner. My preferred setup is the BD ATC-Guide and the Grivel Clypsydra carabiner.
2-3 more locking carabiners. I like to carry a smaller pear shaped carabiner, and 1-2 more D-shaped locking carabiners.
120cm (double-shoulder) dyneema sewn runner with non-locking carabiner.
Optional: Ice Axe and Crampons - usually only necessary in June or early July, feel free to check in with me.
CLOTHES
Ball cap
Warm knit hat (toque)
Buff
Lightweight gloves or belay gloves
Climbing socks
Women Sports bra.
Lightweight synthetic base layer top. Can even be a t-shirt, but I prefer a short-sleeve button-down, collared shirt.
Softshell jacket with hood
Lightweight “puffy” insulated jacket with hood. This can be very weather dependent.
Hardshell jacket with hood
Softshell pants
Optional: Hiking shorts. I prefer to wear pants while climbing, but may wear shorts for the hiking when it gets really warm.
WHAT GEAR THE GUIDE HAS
Minimal repair kit, comprehensive first aid kit, and satellite communication for emergencies
Ropes, protection, and navigation
Additional hand sanitizer and wag bags if needed